At New York Fashion Week, a DVF show can be relied upon to bring a strong dose of joie de vivre draped in disco dancing glamour: big name models, big hair, big make up and plenty of colour, prints and fabulousness exploding down the catwalk.Yet this season, the grande dame of NYFW, and president of the CFDA (the Council of Fashion Designers in America) took it down a level: there was no show, instead an ???experience??? presented chez Diane, at her Meatpacking district HQ (where she takes the penthouse floor as her city base), where the audience walked through a series of vignettes, designed to immerse them in the life of the brand, and understand the women who will wear these clothes.
Having hired her first CEO last year, Paolo Riva, ex Tory Burch, Furstenberg is reflecting on what it is that she has created over the last 40-plus years, and how to ensure its longevity.
Reclining on the slightly perilous marble stair case which runs through the maison, Furstenberg, supping a ginger juice shot, relayed her new vision:???More than ever I wanted go back on brand, and think about the message.What is the brand, and how do I want to be remembered?I want to be remembered as the woman who told women to be who they want to be, and who has given them the tools to do that.That???s the purpose of our brand??? she purred.
Having weathered this long in the industry, it is perhaps not surprising that DVF is wondering about her legacy, and what those three letters stand for ??????I am the friend in the closet??? is her much repeated phrase.That idea of easy yet sexy no brainer dressing is how she made her mark ??? that simple wrap dress created with a knowing wink and sold as a piece a woman could slip in and out is still the core of this sartorial world (if for next season, a little longer in length).
As the president of the CFDA, Fustenberg has latterly brought in a consulting firm, The Boston Group to look at the current fashion model.Threepieces from the DVF collection ??? a slip dress, top and gown will be available for immediate purchase.A move in this direction is something that DVF sees as a definite, ???the most important thing is to speak to the consumer and give the message to the consumer when they most need it??? she says, saying that the model must change to make the clothes at least available within two months of showing them, something it would seem these are tentative steps towards.
And so to the experience, models appeared in playful mise en scenes, walking out of the house, at work, and skitting around the sets.Whether this distracted from the playful, punchy collection shown was entirely beside the point.Social media is the king of fashion week now, and turning a presentation into a shareable experience, provoking more interest and amusement than a straightforward runway show is a neat way of offering something stronger to regram.
Upstairs, in the final scene, pranced the current crop of supers and It girls: flirting around DVF???s lips sofa (brought down from her living room in the penthouse) were Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Karlie Kloss (armed with a camera for stealth selfies), JourdanDunn and Lily Aldridge, their glamazon figures shaking and dancing, preening and priming for the onslaught of cameras directed their way by every smart phone wielding attendee.
Access to them being more intimate and prolonged than the same crowd would get arching their arms from their seats for a flash of an image as they strut past in a fashion show.There was an interesting subtle democracy in place ??? no front row.Anyone who was anyone (with an invitation) could be involved in the action.But why these women, why now????I was one of those girls, so I relate to them.And they relate to me, I know all their secrets??? says Furstenberg, ???It???s nice when you age and you get to have that role.???
Stars at New York Fashion Week