时尚街拍网If you keep up with your fashion news then it will be no surprise to learn that today it has been confirmed that Raf Simons isto becomechief creative officer at Calvin Klein, a new post which Francisco Costa and Italo Zuchellipaved the way for when theystepped down as womenswear and menswear creative directors respectively in April.
It was in October last year that Raf Simons shocked the fashion industry by leaving one of the most high profile jobs in the business as creative director at Christian Dior.During his three year tenure, Simons had reimagined Diors ladylike codes through his own distinctively modern lens to plaudits from critics.His designs were also influential, with sculptural heels, jewel-encrusted trainers, bauble pearl earrings, ballgown skirts (worn with t-shirts) and tuxedo suiting all becoming must-haves after appearing on the Dior catwalk.
While the news of move to New York to work at Calvin Klein has been expected for months, Simons" new startraises more questions than it answers.
"The arrival of Raf Simons as chief creative officer signifies a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein, said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc in a statement released to Business of Fashion.“Not since Mr. Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future.Rafs exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.”
Joining Simons at Calvin Klein is his long-time collaborator,Pieter Mulier who will take on the role of creative director."Mulier will be responsible for executing Simons" creative and design vision for all mens and womens apparel and accessories lines within the Calvin Klein brand," the company added.
In Frédéric Tcheng"s 2015 documentary Dior and I,the close working relationship between Mulier and Simons is a central part of the narrative;Mulier is constantly on-hand for Simons to discuss ideas with and liaises withlespetitites-mains (the seamstresses who work in the couture workshops) to communicate Simons" wishes in his absence.
It"s clear that Simons hasbeen given free-reign to completely overhaul the current system at Calvin Klein where all the various brands from jeans to underwear and fragrance will now be under his control rather than under the jurisdiction ofdifferent departments with varying strategies and visions, as before.
After leaving Dior, Simonslamented the speed of fashion today and the way the industry has so completely shaped itself around the internet, tellingThe Telegraph:“Everyone is paying attention to the wrong thing in my opinion.Theres this huge debate about Oh my God, should we sell the garments the day after the show or three days after the show or should we tweet it in this way or Instagram it in that way?…You know, all that kind of bullshit.Will all that stuff still be relevant 30 years from now?I dont think so.What we should ask is will we have enough creative people who are strong enough and willing to do what is necessary right now to follow that madhouse.Lots of people are starting to question it.”
Whether he will carry these concerns into his vision at Calvin Klein remains to be seen.
“Calvin and [his wife] Kelly were of an era which was all about that glamorous minimalism and aspiration.It was a great American fashion moment.Women loved Calvin Klein because it was so wearable- and thats something thats just as valuable now” says Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph"s fashion director.It"s a sentiment which Simons will no doubt have in mind as he gets started in his new role.
